Day 14 - Reykjavik (again)

Although we do have a second day in Reykjavik, the amount of time is reduced. 7am and out the door. Lots of walking today.

Jump on the free shuttle bus to get me downtown.

First stop, the most expensive building in Reykjavik. Beautiful isn’t it?

Before the 2008 financial crisis this structure was to be much larger and was to include a giant hotel while also being their global trade center. Construction had begun before the crisis but all work was haulted for years. After the government decided to fund the remaining project did it restart in 2018. Last year it was completed.

800 LED bulbs are in the glass. At night they are programmed to display different light shows. Any idea what this building is designed for?

This is the Harpa Concert Hall and convention center.

Walking a little into town and I see a small art gallery. While the shared photos from Nuuk are beautiful, this is the size of icebergs we would have seen in the originally scheduled Greenland port. I’ll have to come back (flying in) to enjoy it in a few years.

Downtown is very quaint and very inviting.

It was recommended to me to try this little pastry shop for a bagel. I wasn’t told they had donuts too!

Now I understand the recommendation. Donuts have a light, fluffy texture to them. Bagels aren’t dense like at home, more Parisian croissant-like.

From the 1950s-70s this square had been a parking lot. Once the 90s roll around the city made a large decision, restore parks and small meeting spaces everywhere possible. I think this turned out well.

Betting you have never seen a polar bear and puffin penguin go full ninja on each other. I share this because the city, like the people living here, are an interesting juxtaposition of many different things, all which work perfectly together.

Further on we go. Go up a hill, around a corner, and there’s the highlight of the day.

Welcome to the Lutheran Hallgrímskirkja church. The architect is said to have designed it to resemble the vast rocky pillars rising up from the ocean, volcanic basalt columns, and soaring local waterfalls and cliffs.

Taking 41 years to build, Hallgrímskirkja is best described as a piece of Expressionist architecture because of its tower-like exterior, its rejection of traditional styles and its dynamic design. Initially it was to have been shorter but the local church leaders pushed for higher so as to outshine the nearby Roman cathedral.

Though opened in 1964, the rear naive is already in need of repair.

Through the screen you can see pieces of the column walls which have been removed and new rebar is set, awaiting concrete injection.

From the exterior I’m expecting a robust, mind-blowing interior.

In actuality, it’s the opposite. Lutheran’s don’t believe in dramatic design elements. Rarely will there be statues, as there are in Catholic churches. There may be paintings or stained glass windows with depictions of Jesus or God, but rarely of Mary, as they do not venerate her as the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox Churches do.

If you can play this multi-riser keyboard you might be invited to play it. People from around the globe perform each Wednesday and Sunday. Sometimes it’s just the organ, sometimes it’s with an accompanying vocalist or musician.

Anyone speak organ button?

It’s quite an impressive 500-piece pipe setup.

As this is a small church, they ran out of space for the pipes and decided many should just project into the space.

Before construction began, the US offered a gift to the nation, marking its 1000’th anniversary. This photo is of the first day of building.

With downstairs fully explored, of course I have to climb the bell tower. In an elevator which I’d relate to the cramped Basilica of la Sagrada Família, 6 people at a time fill the lift and are take to the near top.

Once the doors open you’re at the clock tower level.

Windows are intentionally left unglazed at the bottom to allow visitors to see all angles of the town.

Harkening back to the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, a motor is attached external to the clock movements.

Look really closely and you’ll see the exact minute each clock is set to.

Many people miss this announcement but it’s important prior to climbing the steps to the bell tower.

Pop out from the staircase and the bells are directly above you.

Unlike other towers, these bells don’t swing. Rather, automated hammers clang each bell to get the desired sound out.

There are no windows here so to allow the sounds to reach the town. If it’s cold outside it’s doubly cold up here.

Even though I had read the bell message, they did take me by surprise. Here’s the 45-minutes past the hour bong.

A better view of the construction workers grinding the newly poured concrete dome so it’ll be smooth.

A very beautiful view indeed of the city.

Walking back to town I see today’s newspaper. Apparently three ships yesterday was an all-time record. Iceland is still struggling with tourism. They like the money it brings in but locals don’t like so many new faces coming in yearly. I won’t be surprised if soon they place a limit on how many people can visit each month. Greenland is watching closely what happens here as they’re doubly paranoid about being overrun by tourists.

More examples of the mismatch of styles that just makes sense in the town. Here’s one of the smaller theaters next to one of their museums.

Art, advertising, music…all loud here.

Even during a brutal winter you need to get your pingpong game on.

Care to get into this museum? You’ll need to go under the pond first.

Just as I was about to head back to the ship a distant crane caught my attention. Lo and behold, this is the Roman Catholic cathedral the Lutheran leaders wanted to make top.

Built in 1929, this a small but beautiful French-styled chapel. As the only Catholic cathedral in Iceland it was given special gifts by the pope. It was build for a congregation of 130 people.

One of the gifts from the Pope was this walnut carving from the 14th century. When Pope John Paul II visited Iceland in 1989, he crowned the statue.

Beautiful marble alter area.

When leaving I glanced over and saw this subtle art piece. Titled Köllun (translated to ‘calling’).

This piece is to humanitarian the work of the local sisters of the area.

Back in the main downtown area, colorful buildings fill the area. Art is again everywhere. Look in the center where the front door should be.

Who needs a window in the center of this building when you can have a ballet.

Tiny neighborhood parks are everywhere.

Iceland’s population fell by 25% in the 1800s due to drastic loss of cattle grazing fields due to frequent eruptions. The Danish king setup some damage control measures, one being the formal recognition of Reykjavik as the country’s capital. He also commissioned the building of the church. Shortly after, adjacent to the church, the parliament building was constructed.

Officially titled Dómkirkja, it dates back to 1788.

Since the year 1845, each session of the Icelandic parliament had begun with a mass at the cathedral.

Upon entering you’re shown the page numbers for songs to be sung during that sermon. I saw pages like 483 and thought, no way there are that many songs to sing. Grabbing a lyric book, turning to the last page, there are indeed almost 800 songs to choose from.

Only a few hours to go and I want to see what food is around. Apparently this is what it means to be am American restaurant – eat too often and have too many drinks.

This should be a good place for a bite to eat.

Local fish and chips – sounds good to me. If you’re visiting this country be sure to clear the credit card before. The most expensive nation to visit. This meal was $35. A burger and fries enjoyed during yesterday’s trip was $30.

Sadly I must run back to the ship. This is a town I’d certainly like to visit again. It’s a quirky but really cool town. But we must head towards Scotland. One final 10pm sunset from this country.

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