Day 11 - Tallinn, Estonia

Welcome to Tallinn. This city has seen it all. Dating back some 5,000 years this important port town had its modern roots tied to Scandinavia, then came Denmark during the Crusades, then the Germans and finally the Russians. Tsar Nicholas I, Alexandra even met the British King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra here. You’d think that’d be enough but no. The Germans returned for WW1, Russians came back then Nazi’s returned for WW2, then the Russians wanted the Germans out so they carped bombed the entire city in 1944. Finally in 1981 this area became an independent city and the capital of Estonia.

 

Old Tallinn is one of the closest of all port towns
Immediately off the ship you see where to walk
How ships have changed. Left was made in 1989, right in 2008
This city has brutal winters so they make the most in summer with vivid plantings
Horse ride around the old city anyone?
Some structures kind of made it through the carped bombings
This one wasn’t exactly designed using a straight edge. Much ‘tape’ is used to keep it together
The ‘old’ city buts up against the old fortress walls
Even McD’s is here
The flower markets carry the freshest of bouquets
And prices are pretty cheap. Most for 1 euro
I’ve not seen peonies this tight since Paris
A beautiful, historic city street has been rebuilt to pre-WW2 feel
On the outskit of the city is St John’s church from 1867
Fairly simple these days
How the area looked in 1872
Even as late as 1910 folks were still simple farmers.
Charles’s Church from 1862 is just around the corner
Pope John visited here in 2019
Imagine what this looked like with candles back in the day
They are smart! Add a dedication kiosk as you enter
Walk up the hill and you can’t miss Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Your standard Russian Orthodox church, still in service today.

This church is maybe the most iconic in the region. Built in 1894 during Soviet rule many locals hate it as it reminds them of oppression. In the brief window the Russians weren’t in charge, in 1924, a plan was set to destroy it. Ultimately they didn’t because they had no money to tear it down and put something else in.

I’m glad they didn’t destroy it
It really is this beautiful inside
Walk up the hill a tad higher and you find the Cathedral of St Mary (aka Dome Church)
Watch your step or you’ll roll your ankle on these cobblestone streets
When not under renovation, the portion under the covering is a beautiful tower to hike up to and enjoy the views from within the bell tower
The unique interior of the Dome Church

Initially built pre-1200, it took over 100 years to enlarge it to the current footprint. Thankfully when built they had the thought to make the walls from brick and when a massive fire burned all the wood from inside the church in 1686 they decided to decorate the walls with coats of arms.

No joke, there may have been 10 inches from the end of the bench to the front of the other
Imagine giving the church tons of money so you, your wife, dog and other things can be buried with you within the church only later to have someone else come along, give more money and cut your headstone in half so they could be buried there too
These coat of arms are preserved so well. This one is from 1698
You’d think it was recently painted
This one kept calling to me….
Imagine deciding that yes, you need to recognize the fallen crew (and make sure they’re forever enjoying a beer)
Seeing as we’re at the high point in Tallinn, must enjoy the view
Make your way down the streets are you’re back in the rebuilt old city square
Today it’s mostly used for outdoor dining
Back in 1265 walls were created to keep safe the old city
Even into the 14th century all towns people had to hike these walls in their armor and be prepared to save the city
Some building owners have chosen to show people how the exteriors have changed over the decades

History lesson over. After 20,000 steps (9 miles) I need food. What I appreciate is the city is finding ways to keep the old mementos alive while also bringing the city into the current decade. Just outside the Old City you’ll see examples of this, where the old and new coincide.

Not sure I’d want to swing while eating
New shops live in prior shipping warehouse buildings
I am so thankful for these machines, English is always an option
Delicious whole wheat chicken carbonara with fresh warm bread
New apartment building construction is paying for rehab work for old buildings
Alcohol is not allowed onboard. Many people buy tons of booze here, knowing it’ll be taken and returned to them upon departure. I was told the cost difference can almost pay for the trip compared to prices at home
When it’s time to go the ship captain toots his horn and the dock workers swarm in, all on bikes or motorized scooters. Never seen that before. Once done they all zoom out together

As we’re pulling out, almost immedately you hear the ship horn in a manner you’d usually hear when they’re worried about danger in dense fog. Horn blast, again, again, again. We we going to be rammed??

No ramming, just a group of quickly moving sailboarders, maybe 20 in all, flying past the front of the ship

Sunsets are always great while at sea.

 

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